Tuesday, July 31, 2007

Apocalypto Now

Tonight I took a break from both rule of law work and Cobra II reading to watch Mel Gibson's Apocalypto. Set in the Yucutan Pensinsula just before Spanish contact, the film depicts one man's experience during the decline of the Mayan civilization. In brief, a young tribesman named Jaguar Paw escapes human sacrifice, outruns/outfoxes/outlasts (just like Survivor!) his pursuers, rescues his wife and children, and takes them deeper into the jungle as the first conquistadors and missionaries arrive on shore. It's a beautifully shot movie -- at least if you can call so much violence and gore beautiful -- and keeps you riveted in your seat.

As I sit here processing it in my office, where I stopped on my way back to my trailer, it's tempting to make parallels to the environment in which I find myself. That analogy goes something like this: Here we are in this ancient civilization in decline (or stalled), as Western knowledge, science, and faith (this time secularized into broad Judeo-Christian values) arrives to save it from itself -- or kill those parts that are unreformable.

That is, like the American natives, the Arabs' civilizational development stalled at a point the Europeans (and Chinese!) had passed centuries before. (The Persians and Central Asians are different cases, the former a more developed country hijacked by fanatics -- the latter lacking the petrodollars that skew Middle Eastern geopolitics -- so I'll leave them aside for now.) This line is appealing, but it's probably much too superficial: The Mayans/Aztecs/Incas (/tribes of North America) never attacked Europe, nor did they somehow acquire the technology Europeans were using.

Or did they? The New World natives did eventually adopt European methods of fighting, working, and playing (guns, horses, whiskey), and inflicted heavy casualties and reverses on the Spanish, Portuguese, French, and English (later American) colonists. Yet these losses did not forestall the manifest destiny of a more developed political culture -- much like it's hard to imagine al Qaeda and its ilk (or even Iran) wiping the West off the map even as it brings terror to New York, London, Paris, and especially Tel Aviv. (Though the enemy now is less scrupulous than was the Soviet Union -- which was an immediate existential threat -- it also doesn't possess thousands of ICBMs.)

Hmmm... food for thought, which is more than one would expect from what is at its core a "chase" movie.

Should we even have a Rule of Law project in Iraq?

Because of my temporary and purposely broad role here as a rule of law advisor, I have the luxury of being able to think about the bigger picture (and indeed am occasionally specifically asked to do so). For example, is it even right to talk about developing "rule of law" -- as we understand that term -- in Iraq? Does it not betray a Western bias (not in the politically correct sense, but in terms of political anthropology)? And even if it is right, and what we should do, in theory, be doing, is it realistic -- in Iraq generally but especially under the current conditions of insurgency? Here's my stab at some answers to these questions:

1. Is Rule of Law a Western concept unsuitable to, e.g., Iraq?

Answering in the affirmative explicitly consigns a society to whatever is not the rule of law: arbitrary detention and punishment, state (and non-state) actors behaving with impunity, rule by personal or oligarchic caprice (or by war-lords). On the other hand, we can't simply impose a foreign legal system (substantively or procedurally) and expect it to take root. Like political institutions, legal ones must be organic -- and foreign-borne innovations must be graftable onto local legal/political cultures -- or they will be rejected.

Clearly, establishing law and order is a vital component of both counterinsurgency and post-conflict reconstruction. People must be able to live without fear, and feel secure that the rules under which they conduct their lives today will be there tomorrow, for a country to prosper. Which doesn't mean that every country is ready for American-style (or French- or German- or Singaporean- or whichever model you prefer) justice. You cannot implement centuries of development overnight. For example, it is much harder to implant modern conceptions of human rights than it is internet cafes and cell phones. Conversely, it is probably easier to implant evidence-based trials -- Iraq's criminal justice system has functioned almost exclusively on confessions -- than to introduce and maintain a technologically sophisticated police/detainee database. Which brings us to the second question.

2. Is it realistic to talk about instilling Rule of Law in Iraq?

This is a separate issue because it is wholly practical whereas the above is legal/political/anthropological theory. But before we begin to answer it, we must ask what it is the practicality of which we are questioning. I began to answer that above: We're neither transplanting the Constitution and U.S. federal statutes nor simply codifying tribal dispute resolution practices. Instead we're advising the locals on best practices and thinking about what those mean for conditions on the ground -- acting as consultants given local customs, traditions, culture.

Of course, where those local customs, traditions, and culture are wholly illiberal, universal principles must trump, because part of nation-building is fixing what's broken. Like the British general said in India, "We can respect their custom of [suttee] but then we have a custom too; we construct a gallows and hang the people responsible."

Establishing the rule of law is just as much development work as creating industry and agriculture and a financial system and all the rest of it; indeed, it's a condition precedent for those things. (Just as quelling the insurgency and ensuring physical security is a condition precedent to establishing the rule of law.) We are "developing" (as in advancing) their legal system. In doing so, we must be aware (as the Law & Order Task Force is, I believe), that the system must be perceived as locally run and not an extension of American "imperialism." In Germany and Japan, we were dealing with completely defeated and unconditionally surrendered countries where we could impose whatever we wanted with a virtual guarantee that it would take (and still we respected local legal traditions). Here in Iraq we would need several multiples of troops to be able to do that, and the legal culture is far more primitive.

The goal, then, should be to simultaneously stand up a regularized legal system while at the same time gaining popular support (read: legitimacy) for that system. It is moving the ball up a hill without having it roll back, and the steeper the hill, the smaller our steps must be.

That's realistic here so long as we have the manpower and (domestic) political support to do it -- which is probably the response to inquiries into the practicality of any part within Operation Iraqi Freedom.

We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badgers Either

It seems the Brits are being blamed for introducing "cattle-eating badgers" into southern Iraq, among other conspiracy theories.

What It Takes to Run an Embassy in a War Zone

Not that you asked, but here are all the agencies/sections/offices (not including DoD/MNF-I) housed in the US Embassy-Baghdad, which is currently the largest American embassy in the world. All of my non-DoD work concerns agencies/officials under the Office of the Rule of Law Coordinator.

Consular Affairs

Coordinator for Economic Transition in Iraq
Economic Affairs
Energy Attaché
Foreign Agriculture Service
Foreign Commercial Service
Health Attaché
ITAO
Transportation Attaché
Treasury Attaché
U.S. Agency for International Development
WMD Redirect Program

Executive Office
Secretariat
Legislative Affairs
Protocol
Language Services

Joint Strategic Planning & Assessment (JSPA)

Legal Adviser

Management
Cashier
Facilities Maintenance
Financial Management
General Services Office
GSO – Sully Compound
Health Unit
Human Resources
Information Resource Management
KBR
NEC Transition Team

Political
Legal Framework and Legislation

Political-Military
Hostage Affairs

Office of Provincial Affairs
PRTs – one entry addressing all of our PRTs
ePRTs – one entry addressing all of our ePRTs
REO Basra
REO Hillah

Public Affairs
Press Office
Cultural Affairs Office

Regional Security Office
Counter Measures
High Threat
Investigations
Logistics
Embassy Transition Team
Tactical Operations Center
MSG Detachment
Engineering Security Office

Office of the Rule of Law Coordinator
Office of Accountability and Transparency
Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives
Drug Enforcement Administration
Homeland Security Attaché
International Criminal Investigative Training and Assistance Program (ICITAP)
International Narcotics & Law Enforcement
Justice Attaché
Legal Attaché/FBI
Major Crimes Task Force
OPDAT
Regime Crimes Liaison Office
Office of the Senior Advisor to the Ministry of Justice
Office of the Senior Advisor to the Ministry of Interior
U.S. Marshals Service

Special Inspector General for Iraq Reconstruction (SIGIR)

USAID Regional Inspector General

Monday, July 30, 2007

Sleepless in Baghdad

I've been having trouble regularizing my sleep cycle here. Either I can't fall asleep despite being tired, or I wake up in the middle of the night for a couple of hours, or I wake up way ahead of my morning alarm (the electronic, not projectile, kind). I don't know whether this is residual jet lag, or subconscious stress from being in a war zone, or just nervous excitement from being at a new job in a new place. Probably a combination of it all, and I don't discount the "surreality" factor of living in such a weird environment. It's wreaking havoc on my workout schedule, though, as well as forcing an increase in coffee consumption and making it hard to stay awake during meetings. At least I have Cobra II to keep me occupied during these insomniac interludes.

The Right Kind of Divestment

An important article about divesting from companies who do business in countries that sponsor terrorism. For once this type of thing isn't about namby-pamby do-gooders finger-wagging about politically incorrect commerce.

Love Notes from Chris Hitchens

It's not rocket science, but: If you want to catch a girl's attention, make her laugh. It's easier than you may think -- for reasons of evolutionary biology. More here.

I'm on the front page of the New York Times (sort of)

Here's an article about the Rule of Law project I'm assisting.

Intolerance in the Name of Community

I was shocked to read law prof Noah Feldman's essay in a recent New York Times Magazine. In this earnest but thought-provoking piece, Feldman details his ostracism from the Orthodox Jewish community in which he was raised. His crime? Marrying a non-Jew ("gentile," in the parlance -- and also in the Mormon parlance, so the word must be a synonym for "other").

Except the ostracism is official rather than personal; his friends and even his rabbi still talk to him, but his alma mater digitally excised him and his then-girlfriend (fellow law prof Jeannie Suk) out of the photo for his 10th high school reunion. And the alumni newsletter refused to publish news of his wedding and the birth of his children in its "Mazel Tov" ("congratulations) section.

Forgive my French, put this is petty-ass shit, it's repulsive, and it has no place in America. If you want to practice ostracism, black-ball somebody; don't talk to them, cut them out of your will, etc. Here it's the exact opposite; everybody is fine with him (he's a decent guy, after all), but the "institution" (an educational one at that) revokes its imprimatur.

Feldman is just trying to be a reasonable guy -- he still practices his faith, albeit not to the same degree of orthodoxy -- and these people at his school are being such pricks to him. Yes, yes, they're trying to preserve the Jewish "community" and if they were to turn a blind eye to inter-marriage then after a few generations no Jews would remain.

Just like what's happened to Catholics, right? Or Americans of Italian or Chinese heritage? You don't see any of those around any more do you, no pride in those cultures whatsoever...

Seriously, I believe in taking strengths from everything and minimizing weaknesses. Those things I don't like about the Jewish (or any other) community I reject completely rather than embracing as part of a "you take the good with the bad" philosophy.

And what's wrong with marrying a non-Jew and teaching your kids Jewish customs? Why does it matter whether your spouse has a certificate (in the merit badge sense) saying some rabbi considers him/her Jewish. Alternatively, why make it so hard to convert? If Judaism had been more evangelical over the years, maybe the paucity of Jews in the world wouldn't be an issue.

I've been an outsider long enough and don't intend to self-segregate myself or my family. People should do things that make sense rather than blindly without questioning. Good traditions are good for a reason, while bad ones should be allowed to die out, or be superceded with newer understandings.

Yes, we're not God, and every generation can't make up new rules for itself, and there are timeless truths -- but nobody helps themselves by hanging on to so many weird rituals that force them to be apart from everyone else (which made sense in the time when that was the only way they could survive but now are anachronistic).

In short, I believe in the Jewish people not for their own sake but because of certain values -- family, celebrating life, education, generosity, bittersweet humor/mentality. Those aren't the only values I hold dear, however, and I will carry no water for illiberals of any stripe.

Morale, Welfare, Readiness

War is hell. Not that I would know personally -- other than random rockets and stray celebratory fire, I haven't really been in harm's way (knock on wood) -- but I can certainly imagine. To maintain morale, the military (here in conjunction with the State Department) contracts for a variety of MWR (Morale, Welfare, Readiness) facilities an programming. On the embassy compound, that means everything from yoga and dominoes, a movie theater and 24-hour gym.

This morning I received in my email inbox -- yes, by the way, I'm now the proud owner of both DoD and State email accounts -- a schedule of MWR activities for the week. Activities are centered around three areas: the pool, the gym, and the 24-hour coffeeshop/lounge in the middle of the palace. Along with swim meets and regattas (with man-size boats made of empty water bottles) in the actual pool, the space around it hosts a variety of weekly theme nights, such as karaoke Wednesdays, country Thursdays, and salsa Fridays. The area by the gym features soccer, basketball, and street hockey. And the central lounge (named "Green Bean" after the coffee chain that I'm supposed to have heard of") plays host to domino tournaments, chess matches, jujitsu, and a bunch of other things.

Some of it is a bit cheesy -- especially the full-color photo-shopped ads they use to advertise everything -- but it does lighten the mood and provide necessary stress relief.

Come to think of it, it's all part of the great Club Med Baghdad.

Sunday, July 29, 2007

Family Values

I have yet to meet a member of the military my age (30) or older who is not married, and proportionately fewer singles at each age below that than in the civilian population back home. Not for these guys is the extended post-collegiate adolescence increasingly noted by pop sociologists.

Saturday, July 28, 2007

"We Will Beat the Terrorists"

That's the headline of a Shi'ite Iraqi newspaper ahead of Iraq's match against (Sunni) Saudi Arabia in tomorrow's final of the Asian Cup.

Hail and Farewell

It is an understatement to say that there is a lot of turnover in embassy personnel, both on the State and DoD sides. This is currently our largest embassy in the world, and growing, but few people stay longer than six- or twelve-month TDYs (temporary duty assignments). So there is a constant stream of welcome and departure social occasions, informal gatherings to, in either case, wish someone well. (No I didn't get a welcoming one because State Dept. regulations state that they have to be held within the first three days and only badged staff may attend... just kidding.)

Yesterday I attended my first one of these, to celebrate the departure of a State official who spent a year working as a PRT's (provincial reconstruction team) rule of law specialist. It was an unceremonious affair, filled with small talk around a table of freshly laid out chips, cookies, and soda. I'm still at the "getting to know you" phase, and was pleased to continue conversations with State's Rule of Law Coordinator and the Justice (as in DOJ) Attache, among others.

Then the Coordinator and Attache gave little speeches telling the story of the honoree's year in-country -- spent in some of the more hellish spots of Iraq, like Diyala and Buccoba (sp?) -- before yielding the floor to the PRT man (who I believe is an Assistant U.S. Attorney in his "civilian" life). This gentleman had clearly seen and been through a lot -- including at home, as his wife had suffered certain health complications during his year abroad -- and his eyes welled up as he remembered it all in the split second of recognition that it was now over.

"I will miss all of you," he said with a grimace, "but I will not miss Iraq."

Friday, July 27, 2007

What it Feels Like to Be in Baghdad

A friend today asked, after perusing my blog, for the real story of what's happening here. What's it like for Iraqis and American soldiers? Why am I optimistic about the US mission? -- or has the U.S. screwed the pooch and now it's all damage control? How does it "feel" to be in Baghdad at this point in history?

Well. All this is coming, believe me, and I don't want to go off half-cocked without really knowing the facts on the ground (literally) or seeing things for myself. Today is only my sixth day here, remember, and seemingly half of this time has been spent getting various badges, emails, clearances, keys, and the like. No, I will not dedicate all my blog posts to Saddam's pool or vignettes of bureaucrats run amock. (Though I hope those help to provide some local color.) Heck, after a little while, the newness/surreality factor of it all will decline -- how many times will I need to mention working in a palace ballroom under beautiful murals framed in gold leaf? -- and I will be compelled to write about serious political, social, and military issues.

For what it's worth, my quick and dirty observation is that yes, we're completely on the right track now; General Petraeus and the policy/strategy he has in place represents a difference in kind, not degree. The only remaining question is -- ay, the rub, and it's a doozy -- is it too late given American domestic political realities? I'm convinced that if we were doing in 2004 what we are now, with the numbers we have now (actually, we should have used even more initially), it would be a completely different ballgame. I'm not going to point fingers, trying to allocate shares of blame to the President, this or that administration official or cabinet secretary or general, or the media for that matter. My point is just that this mission is necessary and that from this point forward, given less limited time and resources, it would undoubtedly succeed. I agree completely with this excellent op-ed in the publication where I am an erstwhile columnist, TCS Daily.com.

Finally, fyi, most or all of my contact with Iraqis will be at the ministerial level, so I may neither have the opportunity to cover the "Iraqi street" nor the inclination to go play investigative reporter (which isn't my role here anyway). As for our brave soldiers and marines, let me just say that, while I have little to compare it to, morale is incredibly high.

Post-War Planning (or My New Job)

I recently received an offer from the Cato Institute -- the preeminent libertarian think tank in Washington -- to become Senior Fellow in Constitutional Studies and Editor-in-Chief of the Cato Supreme Court Review. I'm delighted to announce that, after careful consideration, I have decided to accept this offer.

This is a wonderful opportunity that came along quite serendipitously; I was not looking to make a move from my firm, which I had only joined in March 2006. Nevertheless, you can't always pick your timing, and I had to jump on this when it was proposed to me.

The job will essentially allow me to be a public intellectual, advancing the ideas of rule of law, limited government, and free markets in any way I envision. About a quarter of my time will be spent on the Cato Supreme Court Review, an annual journal presenting articles by an array of legal scholars on that year's Supreme Court decisions. The rest of the time I am free to write articles for popular and academic publications, organize conferences, make media appearances, teach law school classes, commission and draft amicus briefs, and do pretty much anything else that advances Cato's agenda -- and, more specifically, that of Cato's Center for Constitutional Studies. Those of you who know me know that this is, or can be if I do it right, my dream job.

My army adventures and time in Iraq have thus become a sort of sabbatical -- and a fitting transition period between private legal practice and the world of ideas and policy. I do not take this step lightly, but it is the right thing for me.

Turning 30, as I did exactly one month ago, gives one pause to consider one's direction in life. With this move, I'm comfortable with my journey and ready for the challenges that lie ahead.

Freedom Flight

As promised, a bit of back-fill on how I got to the IZ from Fort Benning:

Last Friday my escort dropped me off at the CRC "pavilion" so I could check my duffels (one duffel of "personnel effects," one of body armor, neither of which was allowed to be over 70 lbs.) and get a green light to deploy. Instead of "hurry up and wait," this was just "wait." I got there at about 1100, when the poor folks who hadn't been treated as VIPs had been there since 0730 for some reason. I waited there in the heat (over 100 degrees plus humidity, making it worse than Baghdad's 120 dry degrees) till about 1730, when we boarded buses for the airfield and what would be known as a "Freedom Flight." (But wouldn't the return be the real Freedom Flight?)

In that time I read two books (ended up finishing five, plus several inches of background legal materials to prepare for my job, in the week since departing for Georgia) and had a decent boxed lunch. Then, as we were boarding said buses, the heavens opened up and unleashed a rainstorm unlike any I've seen in quite some time.

Thus we arrived at the airfield and entered the huge waiting area. First we went through security, which consisted of weighing us and our carry-ons, emptying our pockets, and then a wanding. I couldn't help but chuckle to see all the soldiers in front of me standing with their arms and legs spread getting wanded while holding M-16s in their hands. Suffice it to say, you didn't have to put your shampoo in a ziploc bag. Then the K-9s sniffed through our carry-ons while we had a nice meal of turkey with all the fixin's (Thanksgiving in July?).

We hung out on barcaloungers, watching SportsCenter and Seinfeld re-runs until we were called for out final pre-flight briefing. The chaplain spoke, as did several others, and a warm feeling of togetherness settled over us as we walked onto the tarmac, to the leased commercial jet that would take us to Kuwait via one stop that shall remain nameless. (They use refueling locations at commercial airports and military airfields all over the world.)

After two uneventful legs, we arrived at Kuwait International Airport and again boarded buses, this time to an army base/airfield about an hour away that is a way station for soldiers and civilians deploying to and returning from operations all over southwest Asia. It was HOT -- over 100 degrees in the dead of night -- with klieg lights and flying sand everywhere. Enormous white tents sprung out of the ground, interspersed with concrete barriers.

We got another briefing and filled out one more form, though were told by the man in charge of contractors that we could "forget about all those regulations back in the United States" because we were "headed to the war zone and will be treated like adults." Alrighty then. This adult was met by another escort, this time a JAG captain who brought a manila folder with the picture from my firm bio on it and "Operation Shapiro" written in block letters.

He helped me get my bags -- after all us civilians formed "bucket lines" to unload them from big trucks -- brought me food because the DFAC was closing, and held my hand through the final flight arrangements that needed to be made. I took a shower -- it had now been over 24 hours since I'd left Fort Benning -- changed, and passed the time by watching some weird movie that was showing on the "gate area" big-screen TV. This stage of the trip seemed like a way-station from one of those Star Trek spin-offs; all sorts of familiar but slightly off features, with different species (military, government civilian, contractor, journalist) embarking to and disembarking from far-flung reaches of the galaxy.

Eventually it became just listening for the last four digits of my social security number, shake the JAG captain's hand, and out the door to the blinding white light of Kuwait at 0530.

I inserted my earplugs, boarded the belly of a C-130 (military cargo plane), sat wedged along fellow deployees and across from others (about 80% military), and lifted off yet again. About an hour and half of half-asleepness later, we began circling and eventually landed, somewhere in the desert. This was Baghdad, and it was very very bright and incredibly, broilingly hot.

Thursday, July 26, 2007

Club Med Baghdad

I just got back from swimming in Saddam's pool, which is really a sight to behold, even with the central fountain disabled. The contractors in charge of running it created a few lane ropes out of rope and empty water bottles, and the pool is plenty big for lap-swimming, water-basketball, and all sorts of other recreation. Interestingly, each "lap" is 33.5m (or 0.021 miles), though the sign that says that also somehow states that 24 laps = 1 mile. Must be some weird Iraqi math...

A few things to consider when planning your next trip to Club Med Baghdad:

1. While alcohol is no longer served on the embassy grounds (except, I'm told, an ad hoc two-hour happy hour Friday nights), you can get a virgin fruity drink while lounging in the 120-degree heat.

2. Relatedly, no handling of firearms while drinking (unclear whether this is to prevent bad shots or spilled drinks).

3. Military and other DoD personnel are restricted in the swim attire they may wear. Men may not wear Speedos (unclear whether wearing one leads to the presumed violation of "don't ask, don't tell"). Women are limited to one piece suits or two-piece "sports" suits (no string bikinis, unfortunately).

4. The pool is strategically located next to the chow hall, boasts an outdoor dance floor/lounge area, is overlooked by two pool tables, and is also in close proximity to several duck and cover bunkers. (Apparently ducking and diving under the pool surface has the same effect as a concrete bunker because shrapnel slows down quickly in water. It's all in the timing of when you dive, however; waiting till after the missile detonates is too late.)

5. You must have a badge to access the pool (see previous posts).

Rusafa Rule of Law Complex

Today I donned my full "battle rattle" (body armor, helmet, ballistic sunglasses, earplugs, etc.) and boarded a Blackhawk helicopter to make the short journey across the Tigris River to the central Baghdad district (neighborhood) of Rusafa. Rusafa was always the traditional home of the police, and it is the site of MNFI's most ambitious and concrete rule of law project to date: A complex combining the three legs of the rule of law stool -- the Baghdad Police Academy, a large prison (mostly for detainees awaiting arraignment and trial) that meets international correctional standards, and a temporary court (awaiting completion/renovation of a new judicial center).

I didn't have my camera with me -- a British legal advisor promised to send me pics -- but take my word that the compound is impressive. Secured by an independent contractor hired by the Iraqi government and advised by the Law & Order Task Force of which I'm now a part, the police-corrections-courts center is already becoming a model for the Iraqi criminal justice system.

Woe Canada

One thing that has struck me as a sort of corollary to my quixotic quest for an embassy badge is that another way I could have avoided that whole migraine would have been if Canada were as involved as Australia in the coalition efforts. Think about this fact: Australia is the only country to fight alongside the United States in every major conflict since World War I (yes, that obviously includes Vietnam -- but not minor hemispheric interventions like Grenada and Panama).

Moreover, I encounter the occasional Brit (though most are in the south, overseeing Basra and the Gulf ports), and a quick glance at the organizational chart reveals Koreans, Poles, Romanians, and several other countries in the command structure. And that's not to mention some of the smaller delegations from the smallest countries.

Why are Latvia and Honduras helping the cause but not the country that depends wholly and directly on the US for its national security? And from my most recent reading of Canadian politics, even the Canucks' involvement in Afghanistan has lost public support. True north strong and free indeed!

Yes, when I walk into the DFAC (dining mess) and see the flags of all the coalition members on the ceiling and walls, it hurts not to see the Canadian standard. Despite the emergence of a Conservative minority government, with a leader, Stephen Harper, who seems to have his head screwed on right (probably because he's the rare prime minister, English- or French-speaking, not hailing from Quebec), I am increasingly ashamed of the color of my passport.

It reminds me of when I got pulled over for speeding on Lakeshore Drive in Chicago in the spring of 2003 when we had first gone into Iraq, a move over which the Liberal government of then-PM Jean "Don't Call Me Cretin" Chretien made a big stink. The burly cop grimaced when he saw my Ontario driver's license (when I finished being a student I changed to Mississippi, and now D.C -- though I specifically declined the "taxation without representation" tag) and asked me how he thought his buddies would react if he took me "back to the precinct."

"You've got me all wrong, officer," I wearily explained. "I'm down here because I don't want to be associated with those people." I was referring to the vehement anti-war protesters, but I wonder whether now that doesn't mean most of the country.

Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Soccer Fever

Unbelievably, Iraq beat South Korea on penalties today, and will face Saudi Arabia (which upset defending champ Japan) in Sunday's final. I'm sure we'll all be on extended lockdown in anticipation of more "celebratory" fire.

Iraq topped its group following a win over pre-tournament favorite Australia and reached its first Asian Cup semifinal since 1976. That ended a run of three consecutive quarterfinal defeats for the Iraqis at the continental championship and followed some unexpected results in major events, including a semifinal appearance at the 2004 Olympics and the final of the Asian Games in Doha last year.

Iraq's successful run has prompted some to say the mixed makeup of the team showed the rival ethnic and religious factions can unite despite years of sectarian violence.

Resolution

I got my stinkin' badge! It took -- get this -- the personal authorization of the Deputy Chief of Mission (meaning the deputy ambassador, the number two State official in Iraq). We immediately filed my paperwork for DoD and State internet access, both of which should (fingers crossed) be in place by the end of the week. Or, you know, we'll just ask the President to sign off on it or whatever...

Seriously, though, I fully appreciate what an anomaly my situation is. But a signature from my boss, the head JAG in Iraq I remind you -- let alone one from General Petraeus -- ought to be enough for all this stuff. That it isn't just points to a serious breakdown in inter-agency cooperation. Not so much a breakdown, but a permanent dysfunction. I'll have more on this important theme later, because it plays into pretty much every aspect of our Iraq policy and administration.

Anyway, once I get my internet access, I'll move from where I've been working -- in the classified zone with the JAGs -- to a desk in the DoJ section. (It would more naturally be with some State folks, including a young partner from my firm who's been here on leave for nearly a year, but they simply don't have the physical space.)

My job, on which also more later as it becomes more defined, is liaising among DoJ, State, and DoD rule of law operations. Coinciding with getting fully badged up, I finally got an official title: Special Assistant/Advisor to the Law & Order Task Force.

How Soccer Explains the World

All over the Middle East -- well, not counting the part that has moved past the 12th century of civilizational development, Israel -- joyous occasions are celebrated by firing off a few friendly rounds into the air. Instead of smoke 'em if you got 'em, it's shoot 'em if you got 'em.

Of course, what goes up must come down. So each time this "celebratory gunfire" erupts, people get hurt, sometimes fatally. Moreover, under present conditions, the bad guys use this ammo-rous tradition as cover for shooting mortars in lieu of bullets. (Or maybe they're just that much happier at weddings and such.)

Which brings us to today's security memo, which advises that the next "scheduled" round of celebratory gunfire will take place this afternoon, when Iraq's national soccer team plays in the semi-finals of the Asian Cup. So more duck and cover can be expected at that time.

Now, normally I appreciate local soccer-related traditions around the world. This one, however, I could do without. C'mon, if you're gonna die at a soccer game, let it at least be in the crush of fans at a stadium, celebrating goals the old-fashioned way -- in a stampede toward the protective fence or fighting with the rival team's fans.

More re Badges, Stinkin', etc.

The saga continues: We thought we'd found a work-around to the badge problem -- you'll recall that I couldn't get a real embassy badge because of the "no citizenship, no clearance, no service" policy, so we drew blood from a rock and got a temporary pink badge of bureaucratic shame. But then when we went to get me a computer account (for intranet, confidential email, etc.), the IT office (a State contractor) informed us that temporary badge holders were not eligible for them.

So off to try to get a real badge again. This time I was accompanied by a high-ranking State official -- a lawyer, so, somewhat paradoxically, defying the rule that all State Dept. folks are... well, we don't like 'em. First we went and got the highest ranking protocol signature available to DoD personnel, that of the Commanding General's executive assistant. Not a problem at all. "He should definitely have [the appropriate level of embassy badge]," she said.

Then we trudged back to the badge office, where the prick manning the con was no doubt ecstatic to see me for the third time in less than 24 hours. even before we could present our case, he started shaking his head. The nice State lawyer beside me began explaining my case, and the aforementioned prick cut him off to explain that "I'll tell you the same thing I told the [naval] petty officer, and the [naval] commander -- and you could bring by a four-star general and I'd tell him the same thing." In other words, no dice.

At this point I lost it -- in a controlled manner, thinking I'd play bad cop to my escort's good. I didn't use any swear words or anything, but I made clear that the prick's attitude was simply inappropriate, and that I can't do my job -- which, of course, is helping save his ass --unless I get the little piece of plastic that's lower than the piece of plastic I already have from DoD (which required an undersecretary of defense's authorization while I was back at Fort Benning).

It didn't work, and we were left to make an appointment with Criminal Investigations. The office paralegal (a Navy enlisted man) had already submitted my "vetting request" -- the long form I spent several hours completing the day before -- to that office. So now we would see whether we could "speed up" the process.

Tuesday, July 24, 2007

The Chicken Dance

The last two nights I left the office before 2100, to the lament of a couple of the Aussies working with us because I would miss "the chicken dance." Tonight I stayed to this twitching hour: At precisely 2100, a stereo began playing that chicken dance song (you know the one) while everyone chucked nerf bals and other non-harmful ballistics among and between the cubicles in the ballroom where we're set up. It literally rains cats and dogs (and footballs and rubber chickens). Full-bird colonels -- pardon the pun -- are among the more enthusiastic of participants, encouraging their staffs to "let off some steam." After the three-minute long song ran its course, everybody went back to battle stations.

Granted my experience with the army has not been long, but this has got to be one of its weirdest customs.

Monday, July 23, 2007

my morning alarm

The air raid siren just woke me up, followed closely by the all clear. So apparently my tardiness has reached such global proportions that even the Islamofascists are joining the efforts to make sure I get my PT (physical training) and arrive at work on time. Ah well, another day, another Katyusha...

Marriage of Extreme Convenience

Related to my previous post, I coincidentally noticed in this morning's Stars and Stripes (the daily military newspaper) an ad for a marriage service. No, the Pentagon hasn't dreamed up a scheme a la Mario Vargas Llosa's Pantaleon y las Visitadoras, but rather I refer to the possibility, under the laws of certain states, of marrying someone while not physically being present at the ceremony. Instead, you witness the ceremony over video-link (or, sometimes, phone), while somebody stands in for you.

This is known as a "proxy" marriage, and the practice is popular in two segments of the population: the military and those trying to get their foreign fiance(e) into the country (foreigners married to Americans get provisional green cards).

And, as I deal with all the headaches caused by my having been naturalized on the wrong side of Lake Ontario, a proxy (if not "sham") marriage gains appeal. But my girlfriend would never go for it; she's such a traditionalist!

We Don't Need No Stinkin' Badges

Today was extremely frustrating, at times demoralizing, but ultimately a draw against the evil forces of bureaucracy.

I sat through my seminar on operational security -- loose lips sink ships -- got the requisite signatures from various DoD officials, and went to get my Embassy badge. This badge is a card that allows you entry into the US Embassy compound, as well as the embassy itself (Saddam's presidential palace). Now, because I neither have security clearance (as a non-American, I can't, by definition) nor am an American, the State Department apparatchik decided that I wasn't worthy of a badge -- and indeed would have to vacate my lovely trailer forthwith.

This really bummed me out. Again the ugly head of my immigration status reared itself...

I can't -- and am too tired to -- get into detail about what happened next, but the uptake is that I now have a temporary badge and had to spend several hours filling out a form (e.g., list all foreign travel you've taken over the last 10 years) so they could start to "vet" me. Of course, this vetting won't even be half done by the time I'm scheduled to depart Baghdad, but never mind...

Loose Lips Sink Ships

I'm in the process of receiving my Embassy ID, and one of the steps to go through is a security briefing. To wit, Operational Security, or OpSec. Watch what you say in public areas, over a cell phone, on a blog, etc. Now, obviously, I'm not going to write about troop movements or operations in this space (nor would there be reason for me to be privy to such information), but there are other observations, which would otherwise be good flavor for my writing, that I'll have to withhold. And I'm not talking about classified information -- though the powers that be are working on getting me some sort of temporary clearance -- but little tidbits that, when combined with other little tidbits, have the potential for endangering the mission. But don't worry; there's more than enough non-sensitive information to go around.

Sunday, July 22, 2007

Duck and Cover

One more thing: In the week leading to my departure, when my friends would wish me "safe travels," and advise that I "keep [my] head down," I retorted by referring to the 50s' civil defense slogan "duck and cover." Well, here I am in the Green Zone and what do we have every 100 feet or so but yellow concrete shelters labeled "Duck and Cover Bunker." Truth is stranger than, uh, irony.

First Impressions

Hot and dusty, with palm trees in the Green Zone but mainly scrub elsewhere. If this was once the cradle of civilization, civilization has come a long way. The brightness of the light is impressive.

My first stop was Camp Victory, the headquarters of the coalition forces (Multi-National Forces Iraq, or MNFI). The first building I entered, not counting the mess hall at the air base, was Saddam's "Victory Palace." It's an imposing structure surrounded by artificial lakes and canals. Beautiful, really, if it weren't for the sandstorms and broiling heat. Gorgeous marble inside -- definitely the US Army's best latrines -- but shoddy workmanship. Got briefings on the MNFI's rule of law efforts, but had to excuse myself in the middle of one of them because I was dying of jet lag. Set my head down on my boss's desk for an hour, then it was time to move on to the International Zone (aka IZ or Green Zone), where I'm living and working.

I can't detail the convoy arrangements for getting from Camp Victory to the IZ, but they were fascinating and clearly well thought out. Apparently the IEDs and ambushes have increased of late, so they spare no precautions. I wore my full body armor (including side, shoulder, neck, and groin attachments) for the trip, but the mood inside the vehicle that carried me was determined, almost ebullient. I felt safe in the presence of all these armed warriors.

In short, every moment I spend with the military professionals charged with executing Operation Iraqi Freedom increases my confidence -- and my belief that we can succeed in this mission if given the time and political space. That's a big if.

I'm in Baghdad!

More on the incredible journey from Fort Benning to Baghdad via Kuwait and an undisclosed location when I have some time to myself in my new quarters in the Green Zone. (I live in a trailer park!) For now, I'm still getting briefed, acclimated, and shown around...

Friday, July 20, 2007

BBQ, Baseball, and Botched Post-War Planning

Last night Fort Benning's Staff Judge Advocate (SJA -- the head JAG) invited me to the annual Chattahoochee (and another Georgia county) Bar Association barbecue, held at and during a minor league baseball game in Columbus, Ga. I was fortunate to have been (electronically) introduced to the SJA by a a partner at my law firm who had previously been the JAG (or TJAG, the head lawyer) of the Army.

Anyhow, I met many of Fort Benning's JAGs and other local lawyers, and spent a wonderful summer evening conversing about today's military, what went right and wrong in Iraq, and how to fix the rule of law there. Most frustrating, of course, is that, as in other aspects of post-war planning, the Pentagon (and the administration generally) simply dropped the ball as to building up and institutionalizing the rule of law. We've righted that ship, but the question remains whether the window of opportunity closed before we did so. I of course would not be going to Baghdad if I thought the situation was hopeless. More on that when I'm in country, but for now I'm savoring my last night in America, complete with homemade peach cobbler and wisecracking bullpen pitchers.

Thursday, July 19, 2007

First Aid First, Then the Guns

I am exhausted. On top of the previously mentioned side-effects from the shots, I've had to make formation at 0600 and 0530, respectively, and spend a 13-hour and an 11-hour day going through a variety of training sessions, spending about half of this time in the central Georgia heat and humidity. (Unseasonably cool, I'm told, at 90-95.)

Yesterday we went through a series of sessions on first aid (evaluating a casualty, calling for medivac, treating abdominal, chest, and head wounds) and IEDs/unexploded ordnance (including walking through a trail/road set up with trip wires, mines, booby-trapped cars, etc.). Almost all of it was useful -- and, I have to say, taught in an interesting manner -- but at a certain point it just becomes hard to absorb anything. I wonder why they didn't do some of the training Monday-Tuesday, to sop up some of the ridiculous wait times that regular (aka not "distinguished") visitors have to endure.

Today was equally educational but a lot more fun. My body was less achy -- especially the arm that took the tetanus shot --and I got a full night's (more or less) sleep, having collapsed at about 2100 last night. Just in time for gun day: Some contractors (and, of course, all military) had to "qualify" but I was just there to learn what to do if I'm ever in a situation to use a gun. (Of course, if it comes to that, we're in a whole lot of trouble.)

The CRC cadre was nice enough to let me draw an M9 (9mm pistol) and I learned how to operate and maintain it before going to the range to shoot at man-sized targets popping up out of berms in the field. And you know what? I qualified as a marksman! Watch out al Qaeda...

Then we went over to shoot M16s (assault rifles). These guns have automatic ("machine gun") capabilities, but we just shot them as semi-automatic.






I found the M-16 much more difficult -- and the qualification standards are higher. Only six contractors had to qualify but, even though I did better than several of them on the M9, I could not match them now. So I guess I'll stick to handguns.

Tuesday, July 17, 2007

A Heavily Armored Pin-Cushion

Last night I assembled my body armor (inserting plates, attaching supplemental bits -- nice of them to issue a groin piece) and got name patches for my ACU (all-purpose combat uniform) and hat. Even if I'm not a soldier, I'll sure be able to play the part! Especially after Thursday's weapons training.

Today was less exciting, less involved, but, quite literally, more painful. The lieutenant tasked with holding my hand this week picked me up and took me to the "med shed" for my medical/optical/dental screening. I'm in fine health but nobody told me to bring any medical records to CRC so I had to undergo a full panel of vaccinations: tetanus, typhoid, TB test, MMR, polio, and something else. Plus they drew two vials of blood. (I opted out of smallpox and anthrax, which are especially painful and annoying.) Would there be any side-effects, I asked the doc. You might feel a bit achy, maybe a little feverish, he said, advising that I take Tylenol and Advil over the next 48-72hrs. And take it easy, no PT (not that even a mad dog or limey would go for a run in Georgia between the hours of 1000 and 1900)...

OK, so I guess I'll just hang out at my distinguished quarters, watch some distinguished TV, and take a distinguished nap... which I did, and then went to see the new animated film, Ratatouille, which I highly recommend.

Monday, July 16, 2007

Distinguished Visitor Quarters

Today, while in the modst of more "hurry up and wait" -- getting our wills in order, seeing the chaplain to pick up the prayer book of your choice, setting up code words for potential hostage situations... you know, the usual -- I was pulled out of line and told that I was a VIP and henceforth would be avoiding such waiting time. So they gave me this red tag, and an escort, and got my military ID (CAC card). It took the personal authorization of an undersecretary of defense to get me said CAC card, but all's well that ends well.

Then I was issued my body armor, which is quite heavy ("the normal [lighter] kevlar stops shrapnel and 9mm rounds, but not machine gun, so we need to give you the [ceramic] inserts" I was told), helmet, and gas mask. Then I was taken to see the company commander, who apologized for not having identified me earlier and promised to transfer me to "distinguished visitor quarters."

And distinguished these quarters are, basically half of a wonderfully furnished house... I guess it's the end of summer camp.

Sunday, July 15, 2007

Hurry Up and Wait

I'd come across the expression "hurry up and wait" a few times before, in reading about the military or conversing with buddies who had lived that life. Now I've come to experience it. We are repeatedly told to make "formation" at a certain time (this morning it was 0700), and then have to wait to get called to go form a line somewhere, wait some more there, do some administrative task that takes five minutes, wait somewhere else, etc. This afternoon we were explicitly told that tomorrow would be a "hurry up and wait day" because five doctors -- actually physician's assistants -- have to go through 500 people to medically clear us for transport to various locations (mainly Afghanistan and Iraq). We were also told to bring a book or other source of entertainment. Luckily, I have several inches of background legal-political reading to do ahead of my work in-theater, as well as 6-7 books that I brought along for the ride. I just hope I don't get through what I was expecting to be a two-month supply of reading material in one week...

Oh, and we also had some training on surviving a kidnapping or hostage-taking. Fascinating -- though I wonder whether it wouldn't have been more effective to give us a few lessons of Krav Maga (the mixed martial art developed by the Israeli military).

Saturday, July 14, 2007

"In the Loop" is Out of Touch

One of the things I did Friday while procrastinating from packing was to email Al Kamen in response to his latest "In the Loop" column:

Dear Mr. Kamen,

I just read today's column and had to respond to your deplorable sarcasm and dripping condescension. Regardless of your views on whether the decision to invade Iraq in 2003 was correct, neither the war nor nation-building are laughing matters. Let alone the safety of the brave and dedicated men and women, military and civilian, performing difficult jobs in dangerous situations. And I take special umbrage at the great fun you have with the Rule of Law Advisor post: One of my law firm colleagues is about to rotate out after a year in that position, and I'm about to head over to do a similar project from the DoD side. It is selfless, challenging, and necessary work, and all part of the effort to, yes, replace the rule of the militia with the rule of law.

Sincerely,
Ilya Shapiro

What is a Jew?

One of the things we had to do at our CRC registration was fill in a form requesting dogtags. One of the questions therein asked for "religious preference." I figured I shouldn't write "no, thank you," but was stumped beyond that. I mean, I identify as Jewish, but not in the religious sense. So in what sense then? Ethnically? Is Jewish an ethnicity? (What about the Ashkenazi/Sephardi split?) Culturally? -- maybe, but ahead of Jewish culture I'm more attuned to/infused with American, Latin American, Russian, and southern cultures, among others. Maybe just as a part of my identity generally, then, components of which include a certain mentality derived from my parents, a propensity for engaging in the neocon conspiracy to rule the world, etc. Yeah, those are the tickets. But then, why I would I want to self-identify that way on dogtags, tipping off the bad guys that I'm the one they definitely want to behead?

No, for religion I put down "none" -- as directed, actually, for applicants "expressing no religious preference." (But it's not that I don't have a preference, valuing each one equally... oh, whatever.) I just hope the ghost of Thomas Jefferson doesn't scorn me for not being cute and putting "deist."

First Day of "Boot Camp"

Today I flew down to Atlanta and took a shuttle from the airport to Fort Benning, about an hour and a half away. Here I'm doing training at CRC -- CONUS (Continental US) Replacement Center -- which seems to consist of a variety of administrative tasks, as well as seminars on IEDs ("This is a bomb. Do not drive over it."), first aid, and a bunch of abbreviations with which I'm not yet familiar. The setup is impressive; weekly funneling hundreds of contractors, civilian DoD employees, and active duty military (those who are re-deploying) through all these training modules. Plus coordinating meals, issuing gear (I'll be getting my body armor soon), writing wills and powers of attorney, and a host of other logistical operations.

But it feels like summer camp. When I first got to the base, in a heat and humidity that, unseasonably for these parts, was more than tolerable, they assigned me a room in the barracks. Next I picked up linens, a pillow, and a mattress pad. Then I hauled my one duffel of personal effects, plus my laptop-containing knapsack, to the aforementioned barracks -- a large cabin with rooms housing four people on two bunk-beds! Claiming a top bunk for the first time since college, I threw my gear in the bedside locker and headed out for the initial briefing of my newly assigned group (gang? tribe? platoon?): Bravo Company!

I had arrived.

Friday, July 13, 2007

Why I'm Going to Iraq

When I tell people that I'm voluntarily headed to Baghdad for two months, they inevitably ask me two questions:

1. Why are you going?
2. How did you get this particular gig?

The answers to the two questions are somewhat intertwined: Even though I'm a Russian-born Canadian (my parents took a wrong turn at the St. Lawrence Seaway when we immigrated), I've long been a red-white-and-blue patriot. I mean, in middle school in Lindsay, Ontario, I pledged allegiance to the Star Spangled Banner in my locker... So anyway, nearly two years ago I went to see General Petraeus speak at a Princeton alumni conference (he got his PhD at my alma mater); this was soon after he'd returned from a stint training the new Iraqi army, when he was just starting out at Fort Leavenworth, where he wrote the new Army-Marines Joint Counterinsurgency Manual. I came up to him after his talk and said, hey, I loved the talk, have always been into rule of law issues, would love to help out in either a military or civilian capacity but see, I have this immigration status issue.

General Petraeus put me in touch with some very senior military and civilian DoD officials and for many months we tried to figure out some way that would allow me to serve. To no avail whatsoever. We even tried lobbying then-Senate Majority Leader Bill Frist (for whom I had interned way back when) for a private member's bill -- except that was right around the time when the larger immigration debate exploded last year, so little ol' me's plight was DOA.

So I kept at my private law firm world of billable hours and continued to write and teach on the side, and of course follow the law, politics, and policy of our Iraq situation. I was heartened to see Petraeus put in charge of our operations in the "Big Dirty," and rooting for the surge (finally! -- putting some needed muscle into the scene).

Then, almost three months ago now, I got an email from the deputy of Petraeus's lawyer (aka the highest-ranking JAG in Iraq -- I won't be disclosing names and such until I'm briefed on security policy vis-a-vis blogging when I get there) saying they had created this new task force dealing with Law and Order and Rule of Law issues. They couldn't pay me, again for immigration reasons, but if my firm would release me, they would be happy to have me for as long as I wanted.

So I ran it up my firm's flagpole and, after various consultations with all the proper people, got my approval. I negotiated a two-month leave and here we are. (From the Army side, they had get a few more approvals from Petraeus so I could get the appropriate training, access to the mess and gym on base and such.)

To tie up the "why" now that you have the essentials of the "how," basically I want to live a life that has impact, and I'm also committed to public service. This country, while writing ridiculous immigration laws that prevent me from having a green card even though I've spent my entire life here, has given me a lot. I believe it's the shining city on the hill, and I also believe it's the body of the spear in this great civilizational battle we're undergoing (Israel is the tip). It's somewhat odd being a libertarian pro-public service kinda guy -- but I guess that's why I'm classical liberal and not libertarian. Plus, I relish the military values: honor, courage, duty, loyalty. Despite the civilian authorities' use of the military as a laboratory for social engineering, it's one of the last places in American society where men can be men, in the Harvey Mansfield sense of manliness.

Moreover, I had long studied comparative politics and law, as well as institutional and cultural theories for building the rule of law, and here was my chance to see everything in action. Just like clerking for a federal judge allowed me to learn about the combination of the theory and practice of law, this sojourn in Baghdad will allow me to observe the implementation of the lessons of political science. Or so I think now; check in with me in a few weeks.

Thursday, July 12, 2007

The Ugly and Beautiful Game

I just returned from Baltimore, where I watched two soccer matches with a friend who writes for Sports Illustrated. (I highly recommend Slainte in Fell's Point -- one of the more random places to find a soccer bar, but a good one.)

The first was US-Uruguay in the round of 16 at the Under-20 World Cup in Toronto. I had thought of flying up to T-dot for the game, and to visit my Dad before my summer in Iraq, but had/have too much to do before departure. Anyhow, it was a painful game to watch, not because of any catenaccio or other boring play, but because the play tended to be sloppy and/or overly physical on both sides.

The South Americans, uncharacteristically playing in red (does light blue clash with white, and if so, why is your alternate color red? -- must be kinda like Germany in green, but I digress), went up on an ugly goal after a mix-up in the box and a backup keeper who shoulda put more stickum on his gloves. Then the US countered with what should have been a pretty play but ended up a jumbled own goal, fittingly scored by the Ugos' most hottest-headed player. Cardaccio was about as raw as... wait for it... carpaccio. (His name wasn't as bad as Gary Kagelmacher -- reminded me of an Argentine from the fabled '86 team named Walter Carpenter.) Finally, the Yanks sealed it with another ugly goal in extra time. Game over, US meets Austria (!) in the quarters.

Then we saw Argentina-Mexico in the semi-finals of the Copa America. Talk about a man-handling in this rematch of the 2006 World Cup round of 16! Heinze's ridiculous golazo put a stake in el Tri's corazon, then Messi absolutely messed with them on a gorgeous chip, and Riquelme gave the blancoceleste more riches with a definitive PK. 3-0 Argies, off to meet Brazil in the final again.

Tuesday, July 10, 2007

Welcome

This has been a long time coming and it'll take a while to get it all spruced up as I envision, but here I am, blogosphere! This is starting as the companion blog to my column at TCS Daily.com, and also as a way to keep in touch with people while I'm in Iraq.

That's right -- this coming weekend I go down to Fort Benning, Georgia, for some basic training and then it's on to the "Big Dirty" for nearly two months. I'll be a civilian consultant to the JAGs on a new "Law and Order Task Force." It will, to say the least, be an adventure.